| 摘要: | 臺灣是一個以移民為主體的島嶼，由不同地域、不同族群，經不同的時期遷徙來臺，再與島內的原住民融合，形成多元文化的社會，又因島內人民的飲茶習慣，可窺知臺灣四百多年歷史發展的軌跡，可謂臺灣茶產業與茶文化的櫥窗。
本論文以《臺灣茶產業、茶文化之承衍與新變研究》為題，在歷時性的研究，時間縱貫荷西、明鄭、清領、日治時代、光復後至當代。又以共時性研究，探討政治、經濟、社會、文化等相關背景，對於臺灣茶產業、茶文化發展之影響因素。在 茶 產業 的研究 範圍 裡 涵 概 臺灣 茶 的溯源 、 茶葉 的 產 製、外銷 、 消費 及 政策等 議題 。 在 茶文化方面 包括 各種 泡茶技藝、飲茶形式、茶會活動、茶藝館 、 茶空間 、茶食 以及 當代茶人的茶道 理與 實踐等。緒論 涵 蓋 的內容 研究背景 及目的 、 文獻回顧 與評述 、研究方法與範圍、 論文架構 。 在 第二章 〈 臺 茶生產、銷售的變遷與特色〉中，筆者 主要 探討 臺灣茶產業的溯源，與早期先民透過遷徙的傳播，將原鄉種茶與製茶的技術，傳入臺灣成為他鄉是故鄉，探源各種茶的製作及當代臺茶的特色等。荷據時期，臺灣處於大航海時代的交通要道，臺灣成為大陸茶運銷歐洲的轉運站，因而建立起臺茶百年以出口外銷為導向的根基。日治時期，在日本政府標榜「日本工業，臺灣農業」的旗幟下，對於茶樹的研究、育種、栽種以及茶葉機械化等茶業的紮根，為臺茶產業一百多年來的發展，奠定起良好而穩固的基礎。戰後臺灣仍沿襲日治時代的產銷制度與紅茶外銷的主力，作為政府茶產業的主要政策。直至一九七零年代，因兩次國際能源危機，臺茶產業的發展，才逐漸由外銷轉向以內銷為主。
第三章探討〈臺灣茶產業、茶文化的分流與匯合〉中，筆者發現臺灣茶文化的醞釀、形成與發展，皆與先民的遷徙息息相關，除了明清時期，先民將傳統功夫茶的泡茶形式傳入臺灣外，一九四九年大陸各省的移民，把中國各地的飲茶習慣橫向移植來臺，形成鄉愁的象徵，反映出臺灣的飲茶形態，是移民飲茶文化的縮影。一九八零年後，政府因側重臺茶內銷的發展，取銷「產銷分離」制度，極力以茶文化行銷茶產業，讓茶文化帶動茶產業的開展，致使原本茶產業與茶文化各自平行發展的路線，匯流而產生一種共生共榮的關係。深究當代茶文化發展的脈絡，在一九八零年代，茶藝復興時期是以傳統功夫茶作為基礎，開展出當代各種泡茶與飲茶的風貌，一九九零年代則以臺灣本土為軸，發展出以臺灣為主體性的茶文化形態。西元兩千年後，當代茶文化的發展，融合各國茶文化的元素，讓原本臺灣的茶藝文化產生質變，形成去邊界、後現代茶文化豐富多樣的景象。
近二十年，臺灣當代飲茶形式與茶會活動趨於成熟階段，探討臺灣當代茶人
的茶道思想，逐漸形成另一股趨勢。在第四章〈臺灣當代茶道理論與實踐〉中，筆者考察當代茶人茶道思想的形成，大抵是以融合儒、釋、道三家的哲學思想作為基礎，提出各種自己的茶道理論，藉由舉辦各種不同的茶會形式，實踐茶人所秉持的茶道理念，例如：林易山的「蓮花茶會」、蔡榮章的「無我茶會」等。蔡榮章又提出茶道藝術家純茶道的主張，讓茶道聚焦以泡茶、品茗、奉茶為核心的茶道思想。
茶藝館是臺灣茶藝復興時期的產物，由於茶藝文化的推廣而蓬勃發展。茶藝
館對於帶動起臺灣飲茶風氣的興盛，可謂功不可沒。在第五章〈臺灣飲茶形態與品茗空間的流變〉裡，筆者針對茶藝館的風格、經營策略、茶藝館的興衰以及目前茶空間多元性的經營發展，透過訪談與實地考察的方式，深入探討飲茶形態與茶空間的流變。
綜觀，臺灣茶產業、茶文化發展的面向，早期是以單純承襲大陸原鄉的種茶、製茶技藝、茶文化內涵及精神為依歸，在歷經日本殖民、戰後政府諸多政策的變革，與社會、經濟、文化及全球化等因素的變遷下，隨著物換星移，目前不斷朝向演變與創新發展，再結合設計、包裝、行銷等跨領域的統整概念，發展出屬於獨特品牌的商品，配合劇場型茶會及茶席文化的盛行，形成當代茶產業、茶文化另一種美學經濟的趨勢。;Taiwan is an island whose population is primarily composed of immigrants from different
places and ethnics in different eras. These immigrants had merged with the indigenous
peoples and formed a society with diverse culture. Also, due to the habit of tea-drinking on
the island, I can look into the trace of history and development during these 400 years. This
is a display of the tea industry and tea culture in Taiwan.
In this dissertation, I take “Study on the Inheritance and Evolution of Tea Industry
and Tea Culture in Taiwan” as the subject with a diachronic approach, starting from Dutch
and Spanish Formosa, thru Kingdom of Tungning, Qing Rule, Japanese Occupation, Restoration
to ROC, and finally to the contemporary era. On the other hand, I also adopted a
synchronic approach to explore the influence of political, economic, social, and cultural
backgrounds upon the tea industry and tea culture in Taiwan. In terms of the study on tea
industry, the scope covers the origin of Taiwan tea, as well as the production, consumption,
and policies regarding tea leaves. For the tea culture, it includes the various kinds of teabrewing
techniques, drinking, ceremonies, tea houses, drinking space design, snacks for tea,
and the philosophies and practices of contemporary tea experts.
The introduction covers the background, goal, literature review and comments, methodology
and scope, and structure of the dissertation. In the second chapter “Evolution and
Features of Tea Production and Sale in Taiwan,” I want to explore the origin of the tea
industry in Taiwan; the spread of tea by our ancestors, who introduced the tea planting and
production of their homeland to Taiwan which then became their new home; and the production
and features of contemporary teas in Taiwan. During the period of Dutch Formosa, Taiwan was on the transportation route in the Age of Sail, and it became a trade hub for tea
between China and Europe. This was the root of the policy of exporting Taiwan tea in the
following centuries. During the Japanese Occupation Era, under the government’s banner
of “Industry in Japan and Agriculture in Taiwan,” the research, breeding, plantation, and
mechanized production of tea set a good and stable basis for the development of tea industry
in Taiwan in the next century. After WW2, the government continued to take the production
& sale system since Japanese Occupation Era and export of black tea as the primary policy
direction. It’s not until the 1970s when the tea industry turned from export to domestic
sales due to the two occurrences of global energy crisis.
In the third chapter “Split and Convergence of Tea Industry and Tea Culture in Taiwan,”
I found that the shaping, forming, and development of tea culture in Taiwan are
inseparable with the immigration of our ancestors. In addition to the Period of Tungning
Kingdom and the Qing Rule when our ancestors introduced the “Gongfu Tea Practice”
to Taiwan, the immigrants from different provinces in China also brought their customs of
tea to the island in 1949. The tea became a symbol of nostalgia, which also reflected the fact
that Taiwan’s tea drinking customs are the results of immigration. After 1980, as the government
stressed on domestic sale of Taiwan tea and adopted the “separation of production
and sale” model, with which it promoted tea industry with the tea culture. In that way, the
tea industry and tea culture, which used to develop on their own individually, could now
converge and thrive together. I looked deeper to see the context of the development of tea
culture. In the 1980s, the revitalization of tea art started from the Gongfu Tea Practice, which
led to different kinds of scenes of tea brewing and tea drinking at the time. In the 1990s, a
tea culture centering around Taiwan itself began to emerge. After 2000, the contemporary
tea culture is mixed with the cultures of other countries. The tea in Taiwan then undergoes
a change in its essence, forming the borderless and post-modern tea culture that is rich and diverse.
In the past 20 years, the tea drinking pattern and tea ceremony activities in contemporary
Taiwan have become mature. Discussing the philosophy in tea has been leading to a
new trend. In the fourth chapter “Theories and Practices of Tea Philosophy in Contemporary
Taiwan,” I investigated the forming of tea philosophies of contemporary tea experts,
who basically start from the perspectives of Confucianism, Buddhism, and Taoism and propose
their different theories regarding the tea. By hosting different kinds of tea ceremonies,
they realize and fulfill the philosophies they’re holding; such ceremonies include “Lotus
Tea Ceremony” by Lin, Yi-Shan and “Wu-W Tea Ceremony” by Tsai, Jung-Chang.
Tsai, Jung-Chang further advocates the idea of “Tea Artist’s Pure Tea Ceremony,” in
which tea brewing, tasting, and serving shall be the focus.
Teahouses are the products of the Revitalization of Tea in Taiwan. They became popular
thanks to the promotion of tea ceremony. Teahouses are definitely the MVP for driving
the trending of tea drinking in Taiwan. In the fifth chapter “Evolution of Tea Drinking and
Tasting Space,” I stressed on the style of teahouses, operation strategies, rise and fall of
teahouses, and the diverse development of current tea spaces. Through interviews and field
investigation, I shall dig deeper and see the evolution of tea drinking and the tea space.
In sum, the development of tea industry and tea culture in Taiwan was based on the
plantation, production, connotation, and spirits that are derived from China. After Japanese
Occupation and the transition to the ROC government, along with the changes of society,
economy, culture, and globalization, the tea is now heading towards further evolution and
innovation. Combined with design, packaging, and marketing, the Taiwan tea has made its
own unique brands of products. The theater-like ceremonies has also become another trend
of aesthetic economy in terms of contemporary tea industry and tea culture. |
